Computers in Cars

Yesterday I had to take my car in for its annual emissions test. When you buy a new car in Utah, you only need an emissions test every other year until it gets to a certain age. Then you need one every year in order to renew the registration. My car is old enough to require a test annually.

There are a number of places you can go to have the test done. I have a favorite place I have been taking my cars to for decades. They don't do anything other than emissions tests and the state restricts what they can charge for the test. Once the test is completed, the state has an immediate record if it passed or not. When it passes, I can log onto the state website and can see that information, pay the registration fee, and wait for the state to mail me my license-plate decals.

Yesterday I drove to the state test site and waited my turn. I didn't have to get out of my car, I just drove to an open garage door and waited for the car in front of me to complete its test. Then the service technicians waved me into the waiting bay. They connected a cable to my car's OBD-II port and my car's computer gave them all the information. A few minutes later the test completed and I found out I passed. I drove out the back of the garage bay and the guy waiting behind me pulled right in.

I remember buying a new car a couple decades ago and having the salesman tell me that the rapid rise in automobile costs had to do with the addition of new computers. Those computers have helped increase the reliability of most engines. They can tell you when a part has failed and needs to be replaced. They can also tell you how much your car is polluting. It is good that states around the country can tap into that information without any difficulty and help keep our air clean.

I left my house yesterday knowing I needed to get my car's emissions tested. Only twelve minutes later, I returned home with the task completed and ready to submit the results to the state. This is one case where computers have helped create efficiencies in my life. Hopefully you feel the same way.

University of YouTube

The check-engine light on my daughter's Jeep Cherokee came on and so I had her use my OBD2 reader to pull the code from the computer. Sometimes the code is a $2000 problem and other times it is a $20 one. She checked the code and found it to be closer to $20 than $2000. The code she pulled is P0128 which indicates that the engine never gets up to the proper operating temperature. Generally this means the thermostat needs to be replaced.

There are a number of tests to verify the problem. If the car is overheating or running cold, that is a good indicator the thermostat is bad. In my daughter's case it is running cold, which means that the thermostat has failed in the open position, which is what it is engineered to do. The final test is to feel the hoses going to and from the engine. If they are both cold, then it is not a temperature sensor problem. My daughter ran through the diagnostic and we are sure the thermostat needs to be replaced.

Now we have two options. We can take the car to a trusted mechanic and pay $300 to have them replace the part or we can buy the part from the auto store and do the work ourselves. Like most of us, my daughter is not made of money and would prefer to save $250 and do the work ourselves. Thermostats generally run about $10 but the Jeep Cherokee requires one to replace the entire thermostat housing at a cost of around $50. It is $42 if you buy an aftermarket part or $63 if you buy the original part from the dealership. At such a low cost differential, I suggested my daughter use an original part.

This evening I spent some time going through YouTube videos on how to pull off the old part and replace the new one. Unfortunately Jeep did a very poor job of making the repair easy. You have to remove a number of different pieces and have useful socket-set attachments, all of which I have. After reviewing the videos, I know it will take a couple of hours but is not an overwhelmingly difficult job. The trick will be to remove as many parts as possible and being able to work hands into cramped spaces.

One nice thing about YouTube is there are a number of do-it-yourself auto mechanics willing to show you the steps for engine repair. They will also show you various tips and tricks to help make the job easier. If you review the videos and feel the job is beyond your skill set, then feel free to back away and leave it to qualified professionals.

Failed Automobile Safety Inspection

I am in Tokyo, Japan this week for work and so my weekend was busy running around doing all of those tasks necessary to get ready for my trip. My BMW is up for registration renewal and my front tires were in dire need of replacement. I took it to my local tire shop who also happens to do safety and emissions inspections. Normally I avoid shops that do more than just safety and emissions because they have a vested interest in you failing your safety inspection. It allows them to sell more services. As I was already buying new tires, I figured I had a better chance of getting an objective review of my vehicle. Nope, I was told I needed to replace my front brake pads and rotors. Considering my brake pad sensor had yet to tell me I needed new pads, I question the inspection but am forced to replace them.

It surprised the mechanic when I seemed excited to replace my pads and rotors as I have been looking to get slotted and drilled rotors and was just waiting for them to wear out. I also think it surprised him that I don't let anybody do my brakes as I am perfectly capable of doing them myself. Actually anybody who knows how to change a tire can do their own brake jobs. If your warranty is up or doesn't include brake pads, I highly suggest you take a look at an online video or two and give it a shot yourself. My local O'Reilly auto parts store loans me the specialty tool necessary to spread the brake calipers and so the only costs are the rotors, pads, and brake sensor (not all cars need the sensor).

I drove home from the tire store and immediately logged onto my computer. My rear rotors and pads are fine and so I was concerned about having slotted and drilled rotors in the front but not the rear. A quick Internet search revealed that it was fine. All of the auto parts forums also said there was no advantage to slotted and drilled rotors. In fact I am probably going to run through pads and rotors faster. I reluctantly resigned myself to the fact that I should probably replace my rotors with the same type I am taking off. I was sad as I really was looking forward to having high-performance brakes.

I called both O'Reilly and Autozone auto parts stores that are less than a mile from my house to price things out. Then I did a search on the Internet to see if I could get a better price. Guess what? It turns out you can get a kit that contains slotted and drilled rotors, new high-performance brake pads, and the brake sensor for less money than the least expensive OEM rotors and pads (OEM are what originally came on the car). So I bought the kit and made sure it will be delivered before I get back from Japan.

I have had my BMW since I bought it new in November of 2000 and only have 65,000 miles on the car. In fact, this is the first brake job I have ever had to do on it. I'm going to try out the slotted and drilled rotors to see if there is a difference. If they only last half the time as my last ones, then I will go back to OEM parts in 6 years. That is a long time between brake jobs.